this is long... and ends with song lyrics.

So this blog entry is a full week late. Not late like you were actually waiting for it or its past any particular deadline, but I haven’t had the mental capacity at the end of the day to write anything. I’ve been really enjoying my time getting back into meeting lots of people and interviewing them on the topic that I’ve selected for this summer (which may turn into bigger work? Who knows…). So far I’ve had about 7 meetings and have another 6 or so scheduled for next week. (In 8 months I did 30 interviews in Argentina. Here in Nepal I’m rivaling that. Now I just have to sit and analyze all of it!!) Its interesting to get everyone’s opinion on the topic of individual rights and freedoms and the role of the citizen in the democracy. I need to sit and look at all that I’ve collected so that I can understand all I’ve heard more, but so far I’m really excited to just have had the opportunities to sit and talk with each of person and am looking forward to doing more.

In order to write this, I’ve left my house at 9:30am. I thought that I’d head to Pilgrims bookstore because I heard they were having a sale. No go. They’re closed until who knows what hour. So where else? The restaurant for today’s meetings is probably closed still -- and going there would mean that I would have to cross the main road… which unless I REALLY REALLY have to, I 100% do not feel like doing. So I went to The Bakery Café up near Pulchowk because I know that they have wifi and it’s a nice place to sit and read and write. Nope. Closed until 11. At this point its about 10am. I’ve already walked up the hill on the main road from Kupendole to Polchowk. Which means nothing to you… or really to me for that matter. Its all along one street (avenue?) and takes about 20 minutes to walk up if you walk at the pace that I walk. So yea. No meaning really.

So then I thought ok…. Now what? I walked to another café that while it looked 100% closed - as in no one was there yet and the people were just getting the displays together, I walked in with a big smile and said “OPEN?!” and they smiled so I took that as a yes. The barman however was not in yet, so I had to wait to get my bottle of water. So I sat down and turned on the fan - got the password for the wifi and basically forced them open. Sorry about that guys. But I couldn’t take it anymore! You had your gate up and a nice smile so I ran with it.

And thank goodness I did because I ended up with a meeting that I can just make before our weekly IFP meeting! I’m very excited about that! So thank you nice men that I forced to open earlier than you wanted. You have helped me a great deal in my research and I’ll remember you fondly for it. (Its casa Toscana near Polchowk - on the road that’s not the one with Vespers or New Orleans… the other one… yea. My direction giving skills were bad, and have gotten worse…). On a side note, I was meant to come here -- they’re playing Simon and Garfukel’s “Cecilia” on the speakers. Thank you once again for opening and for welcoming me in such a nice way!

For full disclosure, I started this blog in the café this morning and am now in the offices of the Nepali Times after an interview. So that’s kind of AWESOME. I’m blogging in a place where news happens J I’m a total news junkie and find this AWESOME! (Right. Others are reading this and this may lower my credibility as a serious student…)

--> note that I’m now editing this three days later than when I started writing this on Sunday…. Just you know, since I’m going for full transparency. My paper is on accountability and transparency (in the general sense) so I feel that I should uphold this in the blog too.

SO, the post I was working on and thinking about since last week:

“little truths”

(1) “Little Truths” is a comedy show on tv - don’t know the nepali name…- which is more or less a variety show with lots of short sketches and some of the same characters that show up in different sections. Again my descriptions are bad - apologies to one and all. But last week I was watching it with my host family, their daughter, son-in-law and 4 year old granddaughter. I don’t mind watching things I don’t understand, just watching is good for me. But I was glad when Uncle translated one of the sketches for me:

One man is looking up at the sky. Another man sees him, looks up and looks at the man. And then joins him in looking up at the sky. Then a third does the same, and then doesn’t see anything so asks what they’re looking for. The second guy says, I don’t know, I saw him looking. The first says he’s waiting for the constitution to fall from the sky.

This is interesting in and of itself because the fact that the constitution is made into a joke for prime time consumption is fantastic! Not fantastic that its being made fun of - but that its in the common discussion and part of the discussion which takes place on TV which then takes place around the dining room table - maybe (not in my house from what I can tell, but others maybe?) The other interesting part to this joke is the fact that the punch line is that the constitution will magically appear. From what I’ve understood, this is pretty much what everyone - even those writing the document itself - are waiting for. One hopes this is just the perception, but there are questions as to the political will of those involved.

(2) On one of our tours of the city during orientation we were told that the monsoon would start on June 17. This was based on folklore and other traditions. So far since then it hasn’t rained much. It did however, actually pour for the first time on June 17. The little truths of common understanding and wisdom prevail! Then of course as I said it didn’t rain. The other day was the big festival for Machindranath. There’s a whole long story with this that I don’t know well enough in the least to do it justice. However, this is essentially a chariot (I think two chariots?) that are made here near where I’m living in Patan and then make a circle around the many little streets of the neighborhood and end in the main rotary in Jawlakel. Every 12 years these chariots make a much larger trek to much further outside of Kathmandu into a far off district. At the end of the festival a bejeweled vest is shown to the crowd (again, I’ll have to find the story behind this) and the President (it used to be the King) acknowledges the showing of the vest. The dates for the making of this large chariot and the procession are of course decided upon based on astrological calendars and alignments. Its said that when this festival is completed, the monsoon will really start. This festival was delayed for one month because of these astrological signs. But once more, on the evening after the festival completed, it rained just as it had on June 17. With all the force in the world. Again, as after June 17, it hasn’t rained again since that evening. But no one said that it would rain every day or night, just directly after one or the other event.

(3) 4 year olds make the best teachers - especially if you’re learning a new language. While David Sedaris is right, and I am relatively angry with little kids that get things easier in terms of learning language - its nice when a child takes time to teach you too. Sometimes though I’m apparently a frustrating student and when I don’t understand a word, Samiya just says it louder. Apparently THAT is a universal way of communicating. They don’t understand you - say it louder. Or throw your hands in the air and grab a book to go over the alphabet and numbers with the person who is much too incompetent to understand what you’ve been trying so desperately to get across. (I also had an interesting question brought to me by Samiya. She wondered if I was white because I drank a lot of milk when I was younger. Not wanting to undo any parenting that had been done, I said that yes I did drink a lot of milk when I was young, but I was always this color…..)

(4) That you will have adventures in eating is a universal truth for traveling. But one would expect that these are adventures in eating strange foods or something you wouldn’t normally eat at home. However, here that has turned out not to be the case. Here, Katie and I have gone to one café a number of times - so much so that we’re regulars and while they don’t immediately bring us an iced tea when we arrive, they put the mosquito repellent at our usual table. Just like being at home! One day we were hungry and decided to go for salads - I thought I’d try the Hawaiian salad and Katie the Chef’s salad. I had asked what was in the Hawaiian and gotten a response that was confusing to both me and our waiter. But I ordered it anyway - I mean, why not? So the salads came. They were the same salad. In every way that it mattered they were the same - I have photos to prove this. The waiter saw our confusion and stood there. Waiting. “We ordered different salads.” “Yes, different.” “No, they are same same.” “No.” Points at Katie’s and says, “Cheese.” Points at mine and says, “No cheese.” Oooh. Ok. Not entirely the same salad. We both stand completely corrected. In another visit we ordered the vegetable basket. I made the mistake of inquiring if they were “fresh“, as opposed to “raw.“ We were told they were vegetables, yes fresh, in a basket with some sauce. We got, well exactly that but in a form that can only be described as complete creativity on behalf of the chef. They were puff pastry like baskets (one biters) with vegetables chopped in a sort of béchamel sauce. Well done. The vegetables were indeed fresh. Thank you. Another time I wanted french fries, and Katie wanted the greek salad. Turns out that the greek salad is what we thought the vegetable basket would be - a plate of raw vegetables. And I decided to take a chance and get cheese fries. Which turned out to be fried cheese.

Well done Jazzabel. I appreciate the surprise that you give me each time I order. Keep it coming - but please could we maybe strike a deal where you’re cheaper if I’m a regular customer, or if I’m confused about what it is that you’ve brought me?

(5) Since starting this post I’ve also made a number of observances that I’ll just list as things that made me go, “Ah ha!”:

- There’s a large billboard advertising for entrance into the British Gorkah Army. Ah ha….

- Today I took a tempo with a woman hanging off the back. Not surprising that there was someone riding standing and hanging on, but strange because it was a woman and there was also plenty of room for her (plenty being that a portion of another body fit inside comfortably enough). AND there was a woman driver! That surprised me more. And then, Ah ha! The driver was the daughter of the woman hanging off the back - and at one point the daughter (my guess) got tired of driving and maneuvering and asked for her mom to take over. She was hanging off the back to enter the front quicker! Ah ha! Also, Ah ha! is that when Priyanka and I knocked on the ceiling to get out, she didn’t stop until she reached a more appropriate stop. Women drivers are much more law abiding! Ah ha! Fascinating!

- There is a jew in Jamsikhiel (where I live)! No, I know that I’m here and Katie too. But there’s another! AND HE PLAYS KLEZMER MUSIC WITHIN ONE INCH OF HIS LIFE STARTING AT 7AM! Ah ha…. And then uuugh, thank you?

- In walking from a meeting to the main road to catch a bus back home, I was almost hit by a motorbike. No, that’s not Ah ha. That’s normal and furthers my annoyance with generally walking around, BUT what was Ah ha! Was that this motorbike had a GPS that was telling the driver to “Turn left at the next intersection.” No, my Nepali is not all of a sudden amazing, IT WAS IN ENGLISH! AND the driver heeded the GPS instructions! For you motorbike that almost hit me, I’m ok with that general lack of paying attention to me. I’ll let that go just for that excitement that you gave me!

- The best of all is an ad that I hope to sometime get translated. However, to my untrained eye and extremely limited (to none) understanding of Nepali there is an ad that I enjoy greatly that just recently started appearing on TV during half-time in the World Cup games. Its an ad which ends with a seal from one of the Nepali ministries that promotes the idea of businesses to give out receipts to their clients! Something about “bikas” (development) being said often in the ad makes me think that they’re saying something to the effect of, “If you don’t give out receipts how can we develop? Because without these simple pieces of paper how can we be accountable to each other. And if we can’t be accountable to each other in situations like this, how can we expect our government to do so?” Yea. That’s 100% what it says. Ah ha!

I’ll end this long (LONG) post with the following song: “Won’t be fooled again” by The Who and the following explanation from Pete Townshend on his reasoning for the song. I’ve been thinking about it a lot in the Nepali context and it’s been stuck in my head for weeks now…

“Townshend stated in 2006 that: "It is not precisely a song that decries revolution - it suggests that we will indeed fight in the streets - but that revolution, like all action can have results we cannot predict. Don't expect to see what you expect to see. Expect nothing and you might gain everything. The song was meant to let politicians and revolutionaries alike know that what lay in the centre of my life was not for sale, and could not be co-opted into any obvious cause. [...] From 1971 - when I wrote Won't Get Fooled Again - to 1985, there was a transition in me from refusal to be co-opted by activists, to a refusal to be judged by people I found jaded and compliant in Thatcher's Britain." -- from wikipedia (apologies… but it was exactly what I was looking for) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Won%27t_Get_Fooled_Again

These lyrics and most of the interviews that I’ve had could basically be interchanged. Everyone is saying the same thing - the leaders are all the same; the constitution will be new but what will it change; with all the political changes that have occurred, what really is different? Not much. People are just hoping they won’t be fooled again. (sorry for the direct play on words… but its exactly that, so it works too well not to use.)

We'll be fighting in the streets
With our children at our feet
And the morals that they worship will be gone
And the men who spurred us on
Sit in judgment of all wrong
They decide and the shotgun sings the song
I'll tip my hat to the new constitution
Take a bow for the new revolution
Smile and grin at the change all around
Pick up my guitar and play
Just like yesterday
Then I'll get on my knees and pray
We don't get fooled again
The change, it had to come
We knew it all along
We were liberated from the fold, that's all
And the world looks just the same
And history ain't changed
'Cause the banners, they are flown in the next war
I'll tip my hat to the new constitution
Take a bow for the new revolution
Smile and grin at the change all around
Pick up my guitar and play
Just like yesterday
Then I'll get on my knees and pray
We don't get fooled again
Won't Get Fooled Again
No, no I'll move myself and my family aside
If we happen to be left half alive
I'll get all my papers and smile at the sky
Though I know that the hypnotized never lie
Do ya
There's nothing in the streets
Looks any different to me
And the slogans are replaced, by-the-by
And the parting on the left
Are now parting on the right
And the beards have all grown longer overnight
I'll tip my hat to the new constitution
Take a bow for the new revolution
Smile and grin at the change all around
Pick up my guitar and play
Just like yesterday
Then I'll get on my knees and pray
We don't get fooled again
Don't get fooled again
No, no Yeah
Meet the new boss
Same as the old boss

Bread and Circuses in Nepal

Many of us have been talking about it, but I am going to blog on it: why have there been no strikes/protests/demonstrations in Kathmandu while we have been here?

Every book and academic paper we studied about Nepal, everyone we spoke to who has been to Nepal, every news paper article we read before coming to Nepal, warned us that regular disruption due to bandhs, chakajams and julus was inevitable in Kathmandu. However, we have been in the capital for almost a month now and everything has been calm (relatively speaking).

And its not like there is any shortage of material to incite unrest. In the weeks leading up to our arrival, the city was paralysed for weeks by Maoist protests as the deadline for the promulgation of the constitution loomed. Of course, a deal was ultimately struck averting crisis, but its terms provide plenty of material justifying protest. First, the agreement was supposedly signed after the deadline had passed, meaning the body charged with drafting the constitution had already expired . Second, as part of the agreement the existing government, and in particular the Prime Minister Madhav Kumar Nepal, would resign – this still has not happened. But despite all this, daily life continues uninterrupted. Why?

While bread maybe in short supply in Nepal (with Kathmandu currently enduring a water shortage) our time in Kathmandu has coincided with the global circus that is the World Cup. Everyday two or three football matches are being broadcast into people’s homes, and when the electricity cuts out there, they can head to a local generator-driven bar. Every cab is sporting the flag of one nation or another, and discussing performances with their clients; people are proudly wearing the shirt of their favoured team. Is this quadrennial spectacle responsible for the smooth functioning of the city (relatively speaking)?

The test will come when the World Cup ends. It is concerning to think that there may be a backlog of unrest waiting to be realised. But if that is the case, at least this charismatic but overwhelming city allowed us to find our feet before showing us this other aspect of its personality.

Some musings

I just looked at the date and realized that in a month, we’ll basically be done here, and then I’ve got one more week in India and then I’m home.  I’ve been thinking a lot about home ever since I left it, missing people there and wondering how long two and a half months would feel.  So far it doesn’t feel too bad (I’m halfway through!) but now I’m wondering, will I have the same feelings when I get back home?  Will I sit there, wondering when I’ll get back to Nepal?

I already feel so at home here.  I have places to be, friends to spend time with, and I almost feel like I can navigate my way around (I’m still working on that last part).  If it weren’t for this strong pull from certain people back home, I would be content to stay here as long as I could.  I think the only thing lacking is a paying job.  I won’t miss having servants, and I plan to leave those behind as soon as possible (it’s frustrating to have to ask someone to get me a snack), but the other things I don’t think I can leave behind as easily.  I’ll miss seeing the city by cab and by foot, I’ll miss the excitement of going out and experiencing new places, I’ll miss desperately searching for places to watch the World Cup, I’ll miss all of the new experiences, I’ll even miss dal bhat.  Sometimes I think I’ll even miss haggling for shopping, for taxis.  There’s only two things I can think of that I won’t miss- spicy food (as I eat piro chow-chow right now) and creepy guys in Thamel trying to sell me hashish.

I think it’s going to be a weird adjustment to go back to New York.  I’m curious about what it’s going to be like.  I’m torn- I can’t wait to go home but I don’t want to leave here.

"Nepali Time"

OK, so prior to visiting Nepal we heard and joked very often about the concept of Nepali time, which amongst Black people we refer to as CP time or Colored People's time, meaning that if you ever attend an event that is being ran by Black people expect for it to start a half hour to an hour later than what they say. That's why whenever I have an event at my house and Black folk are attending I tell them 8 because I really want them there by 9, lol. So it seems as though Nepali's have this similar frame of thinking, which is cool by me. Now this isn't always true amongst Black folk, there's also a loop whole to this concept which in most cases there usually is and I'm beginning to find out that this loop whole also applies to Nepali's. So the loop whole is that when Black folk have an event and White people are the dominant participants things tend to start on time, maybe it's because we want to show that we're capable of it, it's just not our style. That's how I kinda feel about Nepali time here in Nepal, because whenever we've had events with Nepali's with just our group they have been pretty much on time. When I say we, I mean our group, which are representative of the "American way" I presume. So, I've been saying to myself, this concept of "Nepali time isn't true" maybe it's just a joke or something used to stereotype the people of Nepal. But then there have also been times when I have attended Nepal events outside of our group and without fail they have started 30 mins to an hour later than they were suppose to. Which got me thinking maybe there is some validity to this "Nepali Time" concept. So how can this dilemma be explained? I think the Nepali's have strived to be on time with us to show us that they too are capable of timeliness, it's just not their style. (Which on a side more conscience note leads me wondering why is it that some cultures feel the need to prove theme selves to Euro centric values/concepts as if it's the standard?, but that's an entirely separate blog, lol). Anyways maybe Nepali's are closer to Black folk than I originally thought. Maybe we can, all get along.

First Impressions

The thing about first impressions is that although it means first, meaning initial thought or experience at that moment, they are usually hasty and based off of preconceived notion., I've never been one for first impression that's because first impression for me more often than not tend to be bias anyways. I'm the type where it takes some time for me to warm up to something or someone, I rarely like something when I first encounter it, I usually have to listen to a song 2 or 3 times before I know whether I like it or not, that also goes with people and places. So although it's not possible not to have first impressions I try to keep an open mind. That being said, Nepal is not exactly how I had imagined it to be in my head. This partly could be because I have been living in Katmandu which is the city and capital of Katmandu, which is very different from rural Nepal. To be honest Katmandu Valley isn't much of a Valley at all which can come of as a bit deceiving. The area is over populated, polluted both on the ground and in the air, the streets are riddled with endless vehicles honking and whizzing by with little regard, the water is scarce and the lakes, rivers and streams are undrinkable for the most part. I walk down pot whole filled dirt roads to the smell of trash burning and scary stray dogs. I mean all of this was expected being that I have traveled to similar places such as in India, and also because Nepal is the 14th poorest country in the world, but the experience even if you've had it before is still eye opening. It's really hard to understand poverty and these conditions coming from the U.S. Upon seeing these conditions my first impression was to think that voyage that I had strived so hard to get be apart of may have been a mistake. Maybe I should have gone to Brazil, or Kosovo, or even stayed in New York or even Boston and had a care free summer spending it with friends and family. But then I think, I'm letting my first impression get the best of me. If anything Nepal is a lesson as well as a humbling experience. Things that I have complained about in the past don't seem as important as they once did. Also I began to realize that instead of focusing on the negative aspects of Nepal that there are also many positive aspects as well that surely will outweigh the bad. The potential wealth of knowledge that I can gain from being here and take back with me and share with others is and will be vast. The connections both with my fellow New School travelers as well as Nepali friends will be something that will last with me forever. Not to mention my own personal growth from the many experiences that I will encounter. So on second thought maybe I'll give this first impression thing another try.

The Long Voyage

Traveling from the West to the East is no small feat; much anticipation ensued following up to the big day of travel. Was I going to be able to swing this IFP thing, the sum of about $10,000 stood between me and a once in a lifetime opportunity. My father always taught me not to let money ever be a barrier from anything that I want to achieve in life. Through determination and a series of odd jobs that included an enumerator within the census and substitute teacher with a classroom of 30 3 year olds afforded me a ticket to Nepal, The rest was covered by Grad Plus (thank you government for paying for my education I promise that one day when I make it big that I'll pay it back, you could have hooked me up a bit better on the interest rate though, 7% is not exactly the best deal, Yet I digress). So leading up to the big day, I spent the time saying goodbye to friends via a Memorial Day cookout and sleepless nights followed by an all nighter of packing. I'm not one to pack more than a day before, keeps me on my toes. So the day had finally arrived, it was time to go, after countless days of preparation, waiting on student loans, research, papers, lectures, discussions and nepali lessons. Some people didn't think that I was going to be able to do it, partially including myself, but the time had come. The challenge was to get to Nepal by any means necessary and I had successfully completed it. Now I just had to make it to my flight on time, which was a whole ordeal in if of itself. The plan was to take a bus from Boston to NY Friday afternoon June 6th, then fly from NY to Frankfurt, Frankfurt to Delhi then from Delhi to Katmandu. Easy enough right? So 48 hours later, body piercings, a partial scare from a front desk attendant at airport regarding my visa or lack thereof, lots of roksi, terrible airplane food, long lines, flight delays, and layovers I finally made it to Katmandu Sunday morning, exhausted, hungry, hott!! Un-showered and everything else imaginable, but grateful. Bags in hand thinking I was headed to the hotel for some much needed R&R I ended up at an orientation meeting/lunch where the rest of my fellow classmates had been awaiting my arrival. Greeted by a white scarf from the director of the Nepal Institute of Development Studies our hosting organization and the rest of my comrades and professor, although it wasn't my hotel it was certainly the next best thing. Besides no time to sleep when you're in Nepal I can do that when I'm dead.

Water Shortage & Well Washing Festival

Water Shortage & Well Washing Festival by Keesler

While in Nepal for the summer my research project entails investigating the management of water here in the Kathmandu Valley. In this increasingly dense capital, there is more demand for water than there is supply. Defining factors that have led to the increased water crisis in the Kathmandu Valley in recent years include: an unchecked boom in population, urbanization and industrialization, a disregard to the over drawing of groundwater, and the pollution of river waters. Furthermore, having access to improved water sources does not mean that water is always available in sufficient quantity since many households do not receive a regular supply, particularly during the dry season. At present, the demand for water in Kathmandu is approximately 200 million liters per day but during the dry season, the water authority ‘Kathmandu Upatyaka Khanepani Limited’ (KUKL) can supply only 90 million liters per day (45%) and 120 million liters per day (60%) during the wet season (UN HABITAT, 2008). Even at my host family’s house and my fellow students’ host families, everyone is urged to take quick showers due to the water supply shortage.

On June 17^th, people of the Newari community around Kathmandu celebrated Sithi Nakha, which is a day for cleaning the wells, water sprouts, taps, and water pipes before the monsoon rains come. I was told that Kathmandu used to be a lake bed, and since water percolates through the walls of the wells, they need to be cleaned thoroughly so that the walls do not get cemented. The day June 17^th was chosen because that is when the water levels are the lowest. My group was able to go on a heritage walk around the district of Patan where I was able to take pictures of these wells before the Sithi Nakha festival.

According to the Kathmandu Post, the Newari community has demanded the government address water woes: “This day must be celebrated nationally to ease water shortage,” said Astman Kisi Maharjan, chairman of Youth Awareness Environmental Forum (YAFE). Speaking at a programme organised by YAFE in the Capital, Maharjan said the collective effort from every sectors will help manage drinking water.

While here I hope to disentangle the many actors and stakeholders within the management of water throughout the Kathmandu Valley. That includes looking into: public private partnerships (PPPs), community-based water supply systems, public companies registered under the Government of Nepal, the largely unregulated privately-owned water supply services, and the role of INGOs and NGOs. There has been an increasing need for effective management of the water supply systems within Kathmandu in order to provide water for all.

Boy do I have a lot on my plate for this summer….. =)